This is how I first hear about Whittier, a former military base and current port on Prince William Sound, just over an hour’s drive from Anchorage. Tim mentions it amid other options for the day’s adventure: a climb up Wolverine Peak, a drive to Talkeetna to visit a brewery. I’m all about hiking and drinking—and came to Alaska with precisely those low-rent ambitions—but a creepy town at the end of one of the country’s most scenic drives? Hell, yes. I can hike and drink anytime.
I had polished off a book of essays about the [...]