"Drinking in the day is an occasion unto itself, to be enjoyed on its own congenial terms. And there are terms. It shouldn’t lead to drinking all night. It can’t happen all the time. There is such a thing as starting too early. That said — we’re all adults here, aren’t we? — after lunch sounds about right." —Rosie Schaap's charming, low-key ode to day drinking is kind of a synesthetic, readable version of the "Jessica" cocktail she describes. Right? With the grapefruit? Is it too early for this?
Cocktail columnist, bartender, and sometime fortuneteller Rosie Schaap's memoir 'Drinking With Men' is out today (here's a short, excellent excerpt), and I emailed with her about bars and books and oysters.
Edith Zimmerman: Do you remember your first drink?
Rosie Schaap: Yes, I certainly do. It was amaretto. My parents had thrown a party on Christmas Eve when I was five or so, and didn’t bother cleaning up the coffee table afterward. I woke up early on Christmas morning, and there were some snifters with a few sips left of a pretty, amber liquid. I sniffed it, and it smelled like candy, so I drank it. And [...]
"And therein lies the beauty of wassail: more than just another nice-tasting drink, it’s part of a long (if largely forgotten) tradition of celebrating the life that winter can seem determined to snuff out. It’s a fragrant, warming concoction mixed in bulk and set out for sharing, all but demanding that you call in a crowd. There’s really no such thing as wassail for one." —Speaking of seasonally appropriate drinks, the always excellent Rosie Schaap has a lovely piece in the Times on the history and mini-resurgence of Wassail, which reminds me of the tradition I grew up with, which is that after every Christmas Eve [...]