One day I overstayed a birthday visit to Paris by about 10 years. That tenth spring found me in that awkward phase we 30-somethings often go through, called “still between boyfriends.” This phase had gone on for so long that I didn’t even want a boyfriend anymore. In fact, ever since noticing a beautifully wrinkled and mysteriously sensual older French woman at a friend’s party, and, having inquired if she was the wife of the frizzy-haired, balding older man with the huge, horn-rimmed glasses next to her, and being informed that, “Nooo, she’s his mistress. They’ve been lovers for many years,” I’d decided that loverhood was what I aspired [...]
My year abroad in Paris has taught me many things, like how to wear high heels on the subway without falling over, how to converse with slightly aggressive old ladies in fur coats, and, more importantly, the answer to the timeless question of how many sandwiches I can eat in a day without wanting to die (five). But one thing I really miss from the states (aside from going out dancing without having to listen to techno) is ice cream.
During the winter the only place to buy it in my neighborhood are the cafes that sell Berthillon, which claims to be the world's best and oldest ice creamery, [...]
The six flights of stairs leading down, and presumably back up out of this smoker(fire)-friendly bar designed by the evermore Lynchian David Lynch might scare some, but look at all that shiny gold!
From Hairpin pal Olivia Singer:
I moved to Paris a year ago, following the feminist dream. I got here and there was a major lack of feminism. Not just major DSK-style stuff, not just the sexual assaults that I was subjected to within my first week here, but not being allowed to order my own food when I was at a restaurant with a guy and being stared at without any sense of shame by everyone on the metro just for wearing a skirt above my knees. It's amazing here, but it's very difficult as a woman. And the feminism I am so used to, Hairpin-ny feminism that's fun as [...]