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Tuesday, December 11, 2012

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Eating Good Cheap Food

When I quit my job to start traveling in 2008, I barely thought about food. My pre-trip mealtime preparation consisted of reading a book called How to Shit Around the World, and that was about it. Back then, travel for me was all about crazy transportation misadventures, fun hikes, and the other travelers I'd meet. But after tasting a meat dish on a Trans-Mongolian train into China, all the bland boiled mutton I'd been eating went out the window, not literally. Food in China was nothing like the stuff I'd had at home in Canada or New York — as I came to learn, every province had its own tastes, techniques, and ingredients. Late to the game, perhaps, but I was bowled over, and eating subsequently became the main reason I travel. And I don't mean at fancy restaurants — I mean the tiny plastic tables and chairs at the side of the road. I’ve found, too, that talking about food can bridge cultures, allowing me to slide sideways into kitchens and bakeries, butcher shops and market stalls.

But there were two problems: how to eat cheap food without getting sick (and I got sick many, many times — from lukewarm llama empanadas in South America to contaminated soup in Myanmar), and how to eat on the road despite having celiac disease. Over the years, though, I gathered some tips for eating safely, and that's essentially how The Food Traveler’s Handbook was born. My goal was to demystify street eats for skeptics, while also providing advice for using food as a way to learn and connect. Edith asked me to share a few of my tips (and some of my food photos … mmm … soup), so here they are, and of course I’d be happy to answer any questions in the comments.

- Everyone tells you to eat at the stalls with the longest line of locals, but an important addition to that is to opt for the stalls with women and children in line, too. More variety in the customer base usually means the stall has been vetted enough that it’s safe for everyone. Yes, it’s still better to choose a long lineup of men over crickets and an empty stall, but given the choice, women and children in line is where you want to go.

- For a cheap lunch, go to the local university and find a place nearby. Students are a hungry bunch without much to spend on food, and throughout the world cheap stalls pop up around universities. It won’t be the best meal of your life, but it will be local, fast, cheap, and usually delicious. Not recommended for dinnertime, however, as the meals will have sat out for the afternoon.

- When choosing a stall, try to make sure the woman or man running it doesn't touch both the money and the food with their bare hands. Either pick a two-person stall where someone's handling the cash and someone else the food, or a place where the chef is wearing plastic gloves while making the food, and touching the money without them.

- It's not exactly glamorous, but for celiac disease or other allergies, I’ve carried translation cards with me to indicate what I can and can't eat in the local language. Friends with peanut allergies do the same on their travels through Asia, and of course due diligence is needed to know what ingredients have to be avoided. (In my case, soy sauce, which contains wheat flour.) Two options for printable cards are Select Wisely or Allergy Translation. They go a long way toward getting your point across — certainly more so than my initial “gesture feverishly while mimicking getting ill over food” — and Select Wisely has a strongly worded option for those with more life-threatening allergies. You could also bring a Point It Dictionary if you’re concerned about eating food you can't place. Also fun for trading words in your respective language when on a long train ride.

- And in the event you do get sick, it’s convenient to have a first-aid kit with you that includes (1) oral rehydration salts, (2) Ciprofloxacin or a Z-Pack (if you get food poisoning/stomach infections, you'll want some of this; prescribed by your doctor and replaceable in most pharmacies around the world), (3) Metronidazol, for giardia or amoebic dysentery; I’ve picked these up for reasonable prices in Thailand or other parts of Southeast Asia, and (4) Immodium but only if absolutely necessary — I use it if I’m about to board a bus for 8 hours and know that I’m not going to make it without taking copious bathroom breaks. Best, always, to see a local doctor if you’ve been sick for several days, but I always advocate taking a small medicine kit with you in the event you’re somewhere rural.

- Finally, cutlery is often the culprit for bacteria while the food is safe and fresh. I carry baby wipes to use on chopsticks or utensils that look suspect. Not often an issue, but good to have on you, especially when you head to pee and realize there’s no toilet paper.

Bon appétit!

Jodi Ettenberg is a former lawyer now eating her way around the world and documenting it on her site, Legal Nomads. She gets the shakes when she goes too long without eating sticky rice.



158 Comments / Post A Comment

oh! valencia

That soup looks like the best thing in the world.
I'll check out your book! I'm so thankful I don't have any food allergies; I hadn't even thought about how hard traveling could be in that case.

NeverOddOrEven

@oh! valencia
Yep, I think I might have to convince my husband to pick up pho and banh mis for dinner tonight.

Jodi

@oh! valencia Thank you! It's been interesting because I've gotten more sensitive as I've gotten older. At first I ignored that wheat made me feel sick but now there's no ignoring it, so I've had to be careful.

allendaniel

This is so totally gooooooood@a

Megasus

Awesome! I'll have to show my sister the vegetarian translation card!

michealjohn

@Megasus Wow! What an eye opener this post has been for me. Very much appreciated, bookmarked, I can’t wait for more!
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craygirl

Mmmmm, delicious TKTK WHAT DISH! A personal favorite. :)

This was great advice - I especially like the "follow women & children" tip. I'm always a little skittish when it comes to trying food outside my comfort zone, so this will be helpful next time I'm travelling!

Edith Zimmerman

@craygirl OMG HORRIFIED fixed I am sorry & an idiot

craygirl

@Edith Zimmerman

Ahhh sorry, you obviously aren't an idiot! Was actually reading this article while ignoring the huge stacks of papers I need to edit for grad school so... this may be karmic punishment directed at me.

Jodi

@craygirl Glad it was helpful! If you're venturing to a place with a culture of street food - I'm in Vietnam now, and the street stalls are popular with locals so they are constantly bustling - that's a great opportunity to try the things you otherwise might avoid.

craygirl

@Jodi

Ah hopefully soon!! I've only left North America once so far - next trip is to France for work, so odds of finding street vendors there seem slim. But I know a lot of people who've ventured to Korea/China and the pictures of the food they're eating are soooo mouthwatering - if only I knew the names of things, I'd try to order them here as well :)

Thanks for the link to your blog, BTW - the photos are incredible!

Jodi

@craygirl Thanks - glad you like it! I started with a point & shoot and only recently (last year) updated to a small Micro 4/3ds camera - so much less of a hassle than carrying a big DSLR! For France, there are plenty of great AM fruit/vegetable markets for fresh cheese & meat products, which are well-worth checking out. Where will you be in France? Happy to recommend some eats if I'm familiar with it.

RK Fire

@Jodi: Have you had banh xeo yet? Please get it, for me. I've only had home made in the US (still delicious), and never from a street vendor like it's traditionally done.

Jodi

@RK Fire This evening!! I had it this evening and even better, it was because of the 'Pin - another reader saw this post and then wrote to say "another visitor who loves street food, woohoo!" and then took me with her friends for banh xeo. Yay! So wonderful :) Photo here: http://instagram.com/p/TI60-zOI-e/

RK Fire

@Jodi

I AM SO JEALOUS!!! Hooray street food!

Jodi

@RK Fire So so good. :)

MisskristenL

The translation cards are awesome! I love that not only are there cards for food allergies, but for vegans/vegetarians as well.

OhMyGoshYouGuys

Great post, Jodi. What kinds of food did you enjoy in Russia?

Jodi

@OhMyGoshYouGuys Thanks! I ate a lot of meat there, thin crepes rolled in spiced meat for breakfast (I left the crepe), or dumplings in Siberia (though people thought it was hilarious for me to eat only the inside of the dumpling.) In Moscow I went to a few cafeteria-style places with point-and-pay food choices - great soups and hearty salads. But I was there in 2008 and food really wasn't a focus yet - I want to go back and see what I'd find now! :)

annierebekah

Good tip on the metronidazole especially because it Will Kill Everything and it's available OTC in pharmacies in so many places but I feel like it should come with a hefty warning, because it really can make you go bonkers and has a potential for (rare, but still!) neurological side effects.

wee_ramekin

@annierebekah Also! I believe that metronidazole kills all the bacteria in your gut*, the good guys as well as the bad. So you might want to go easy on yourself after coming off it, and try eating some probioticky stuff like yogurt to regenerate your population of good gut flora.

*I could be wrong; let me know if I am!

Steph

Finally! Jodi! I second everything here- street food is the best, especially in Asia.

Jodi

@Steph Yay! Having eaten with you before I can attest to your enthusiasm for eats. Come join me in Saigon!

Verity

Either pick a two-person stall where someone's handling the cash and someone else the food, or a place where the chef is wearing plastic gloves while making the food, and touching the money without them.

I seem to go to so many places where people don't quite get the point of gloves. They are worn not only to make the food, but also to take the money. They're not magic antibacterial gloves! Your hands are not clean just because they're plastic on them!

the roughest toughest frail

@Verity I think it was Anthony Bourdain who pointed out that wearing gloves in the kitchen leads to more unsanitary practices, i.e. handling money or touching raw meat and then grabbing veggies, because the cook doesn't think about what's on his/her hands. If you're touching raw meat with bare hands, you're more likely to wash your hands because you're more aware of the blood.

par_parenthese

@abetterfate Word.

Plus, handling a knife while wearing gloves is a trip to the ER just waiting to happen. How many nerve endings are in your fingers that are deadened by gloves? I'd rather see no gloves with the food, gloves with the money, frankly!

Poubelle

@abetterfate Yeah, all my foodservice experience taught me is that gloves probably mean the situation is worse. Like, "I put these gloves on at the start of my shift, I won't change them until my break four hours from now."

Jodi

@Verity Yes, that's exactly right. I've seen many stalls in Thailand and Laos where the person uses gloves the money, then takes them off and makes the food, or vice-versa. I'm comfortable with either, so long as the two don't meet. Since it's a street stall you can see what they're doing - if the gloves stay on throughout, move on! :)

HeyThatsMyBike

@Poubelle Back when I worked in food service (15 years ago now, which is totally weird and scary for me), we initially had a scrub down hand wash and hand sanitizer regimen because they determined it was actually MUCH cleaner than using gloves. But our customers didn't like that we didn't wear gloves, so eventually we switched so that people stopped feeling weird about it. And I totally would wear the same gloves for as long as possible (but never money and then back to food), and know for sure that the whole thing was way dirtier.

Lu2
Lu2

"giardia or amoebic dysentery; I’ve picked these up for reasonable prices in Thailand or other parts of Southeast Asia"

I'm sorry, I don't care how cheap they were--I wouldn't pay a cent for either of them.

Ha! Ha! joke.

But seriously, great article and great tips.

twinkiesandwine

Yeah Myanmar! I've been once and would really like to go again (I have family there). Where did you go when you were there?

And yes, both my Dad and Aunt got sick at Inle Lake, probably from the beer they had at dinner. I'm very thankful that in all my travels, I've only ever been majorly sick in a foreign country from a 24 hr stomach bug in Costa Rica, but it was still pretty rough (at least my Mom was with me for that one - I was 12, so...).

Jodi

@twinkiesandwine I was there for about 7 weeks in 2010. I went up to Myitkyina for the Kachin State Fair and also to the more popular Bagan, Inle and Mandalay, ending my time down in Hpa-An for the last week in the country. It was fascinating and eye opening and there were very few tourists as it was pre-election. I'd love to return and see the contrasts now that it's opened up. My friends Bessie & Kyle lived there for over a year and wrote some lovely pieces - they are at www.onourownpath.com if you want to check it out!

frigwiggin

Friends and I (well, friends pointed it out, I didn't notice it myself at all) noticed the separate-money-handler thing at a booth at a Mexican flea market in Chicago last month! I am an unobservant doofus who doesn't pay attention to important things like that, so really the takeaway for me is that I need to travel with a caretaker at all times.

par_parenthese

Re: chopsticks, just look around you. Are you in an alley? Is the floor just an extension of the street or sidewalk? Are you sitting on an upturned milk crate or a tiny plastic stool that looks like it belongs in a kindergarten classroom? Then you're probably ok to dump some of the screaming-hot tea they just brought to your table over your utensils before you use them. Go ahead! Just pour it on over! Bowl too! Yep, right on to the floor. You can even giggle while you do it because you feel like you're breaking a rule even though everyone else in the place is doing it too.

Jodi

@par_parenthese I just got to Vietnam (first time here) and there's a "beer and snails" place right next to my apartment, with tiny plastic chairs for all. Locals eat the snails then throw all the shells on the floor. At first I was gingerly putting them there ("sorry, so messy - SORRY!") but by the end of the night I was throwing snails down like the best of them. Satisfying!

itiresias

celiac disease is always a big factor on my "why i can't quit my job and travel around the world" list. thanks for taking it off a little :)

par_parenthese

@itiresias I have a few friends with celiac who've done a TONNNN of travel -- one lived in the Middle Ease (i.e. bread central) for a yearish and did fine. Apparently the situation is so much better now than it was even five years ago.

Jodi

@itiresias Yay! It's not easy in many places - I found Spain harder than anywhere in Asia, for example - SO MUCH BREAD. And so much confusion when I don't want the bread. But having just gotten to Vietnam I can say come here first! I've not needed to say anything because in the south almost everything is soy-free - rice noodles, tapioca noodles, lots of fresh herbs and salad rolls. It's heaven. I'm here for 3 months so I'll have a better roundup later! But so far, it's a celiac's dream come true :)

octagonfudge

"Lukewarm llama empanadas" is such a great little poem.

heyhaley

Trying to get over the "congratulations. how wonderful." moment I'm having regarding the opening sentence so I can get on to the rest of this story, which is lovely, I'm sure. I'm really very happy for you. VERY VERY HAPPY.

Pocket Witch

If you go to Germany, definitely eat a döner. They're delicious. Don't pay more than 4 euros, though; 3 to 4 is the right price. Anything more and the taste/quality actually goes down.

Source: extensive trials performed by a dozen college students in several different cities.

I'm planning to spend Christmas break cooking as much German food as I can, because I suddenly started to miss it terribly.

janejanejane

It is very impressive that you are eating all over the world, undaunted by being a celiac. It makes me a tiny bit braver about the idea. Have you tried eating in Hong Kong? It is very high on my list of places to see. Also, would carrying your own utensils be at all practical as a way of avoiding contamination?

Panda+Attack

Man I read the opening sentences and thought, oh that sounds like a lovely topic, but I'm sure it'll be for people without food allergies, why bother. But no! You get it! Totally going to print off those gluten allergy cards for my next trip.

Jodi

@Panda+Attack So glad to hear! People ask why I included a whole chapter on allergies/eating restrictions in the book and it's because it really is so daunting, and so much harder to get comfortable on the road. Many safe travels to you!

lindsey@twitter

Jodi, I have loved your writing since I first ran into it on Hipmunk. I've even posted here about how much I love reading your blog. But I love you even more for having read a book called "How to Shit Around the World".

Can't wait to read more about Vietnam!!

Jodi

@lindsey@twitter Thank you! Hipmunk is good fun, and a great team to work with. The best part about that book was reading it on the NY subway on the way to work. So many weird looks.

Diana

Talk to me about everything you ate in Myanmar/Burma. Burmese food is my favorite thing in the world and if any of you live in San Francisco and are curious please let me talk at you about it.

stonefruit

@Diana Your views on Burmese Kitchen on Larkin: GO.

Jodi

@Diana It's very different depending on the region, but I agree - delicious! If you like Burmese food, pick up Naomi Duguid's new book, Rivers of Flavor - she's done a wonderful job of not only providing terrific recipes but also going into the regional differences and anthropology behind the foods people eat in country. She's been going to Burma since the 1980s & her book just came out this fall --http://www.amazon.com/Burma-Rivers-Flavor-Naomi-Duguid/dp/1579654134

notfromvenus

Oh, very interesting. I don't have any food allergies, but I am a vegetarian, so finding food while traveling can be difficult. I see that Select Wisely has vegetarian cards, so I'll definitely have to pick some up before I go to Korea next year.

Jodi

@notfromvenus Glad it's of help! Another option is Happy Cow and they've got a whole section on vegetarian restaurants in S. Korea - http://www.happycow.net/asia/south_korea/

Leah Feinman@facebook

These are great tips! My family and I often travel to Asia and in the past I haven't allowed my children to eat food from street vendors, just because of hygiene issues and because the meat is sometimes not completely cooked. (Once or twice I even suspected that the vendor might not have washed his hands before handling the food.) Next time I'll follow your tips about which stalls to pick and let my kids really experience the culture. Thanks, Jodi!

Jodi

@Leah Feinman@facebook Great to hear! It's also a really fun way to show your kids a whole set of insights about the local culture, just by watching the chaos and routines at the street level. Really enjoyed explaining to friends' kids where the metal carts were kept at night and what markets the food came from, etc. It's a hands-on learning experience :) Safe trip!

thewhitelipstick

That's really great tips! I totally agree that it sucks to get sick when travel. I also have a slogan, always be prepared!

MScott-Photography

JUST the book I am looking for!!My husband and I are hardcore food-a-philes and will look forward to reading this! Just downloaded to my Kindle and putting it on my gift giving list! Thanks so much for posting!

Jodi

@MScott-Photography Hope you enjoy the book!

wee_ramekin

JESUS. That soup looks so delicious.

*drool*

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